This entry has been a long time coming, primarily since on our travels through Georgia, we were very often out of cell phone and internet range. Even now, in St-Augustine Florida, the internet access is spotty. It is often difficult to stay connected as the wi-fi systems are in some locations, pretty primitive.
Since I last wrote, because of strong winds we decided to stay an extra day in Beaufort South Carolina. That was no hardship since the town is very attractive. I did try to upload photos to the last blog entry but the access being what is is, it was not possible. I may have to wait until I get to a "real" wi-fi location to do that. In fact, this afternoon I'll get to a coffee shop and bring along the Mac.
After we left Beaufort on Wednesday Nov. 19th, we stopped at the Palmetto Bay Marina, on Hilton Head Island. It was a bit out of the way, but gave us a protected spot to spend the night. The marina was located adjacent to a resort so there were small cafes and bars where we had dinner after our long day on the water. We were again lucky to have found a spot frequented by locals and treated ourselves to a simple dinner - no dishes to wash. My day typically starts around 5 a.m. when I grab a good breakfast, make my lunch, and then take Caja for a good walk. Our departure is usually just before sunrise, around 7 a.m. We have been pretty lucky with tidal currents - we are in an area where the tides are around 9 feet in height. That means that when the tide is either coming in or going out, there is quite a current generated. I can slow us down to around 3 knots, or it can boost our speed up to about 7 knots, depending on how close we are to the inlet. Things have usually evened out, however, so that our average speed has been about 5.4 knots - about 6 mph - about 10 kph. The other thing that the high tidal range has allowed us to do is safely navigate the shallow parts of the ICW. There are spots where the water is no more than 2 feet deep at low tide. Our boats draw around 4 feet, so we need to be very aware of the state of the tide when we leave to cover any of those areas.
In Georgia, there are 3 areas where the water is very shallow, and yet we we had absolutely no problems in terms of running aground. I had been informed by other sailors, that I would definitely run aground in Georgia. I do admit that going through those areas is stressful - one eye is always on the depth sounder- but here we are in Florida and the only time that I touched bottom was in North Carolina when I strayed a bit out of the channel. And even then, I just put the boat into reverse and easily backed off the soft muddy bottom into deeper water.
The other challenge that Georgia presented is the relative lack of marinas along the way. Had I been alone, that would have presented no problem but with the dog - there is a problem. Much of the waterway's path through Georgia as through swamps. The sides of the waterway are made up of swamp grass sitting in mud. There are often no places where a dinghy can land or where a dog can go ashore and "do his business". Skipper Bob gave recommendations on where to anchor so that dogs may be taken ashore but his directions were usually skimpy with insufficient specifics. More on that later.
The other feature of Georgia is that we are regularly required to traverse sounds - fairly large bodies of water with access to the ocean, and very often, quite shallow areas where the sand has been moved around by the rushing tides. Again, close attention to the buoys kept us on the straight and narrow and in deep enough water. One advantage of having to go through larger bodies of water is that then, it is often possible to put up at least 1 sail. Whenever the wind is right, and the waterway wide enough, I launch the genoa. It allows me to keep up with larger boats which are generally, quite a bit faster than I am. Because of my relatively small side, the sails are smaller and easier to quickly launch and retrieve.
When we left Palmetto Bay, our next stop was at the Isle of Hope Marina. This Marina was located near Savannah Georgia; in fact, the Savannah bus route ran very close to the marina. This would be a good spot to dock if one wished to pay Savannah a good long visit. While there we made arrangements to use their courtesy car and made a trip to the local grocery store, and then stopped at an authentic local diner for a southern lunch of pulled pork sandwich. It was a very busy spot so we knew that we would luck out. Strong winds were predicted for Friday, so we made arrangements to spend another day at this spot. It is a real luxury being able to do that. It has generally turned out that our travel days are sunny and with light winds - perfect.
The next 2 days were anchor out days. The first stop at Walburg Creek; the second at Duplin Creek. Both of these anchorages were excellent. The creeks were several hundred yards wide and protected on at least 1 side by trees. The other side featured the typical Georgia swamp grass. So at least we would not have to put up with wind-generated waves. Both of these areas are supposed to be doggy-friendly but in each spot, one had to know is advance where the landing areas were and then drop the anchor close to those spots. I did not and so, although I put the dinghy in the water at Walburg, Caja did not get a trip to shore. I did take him in to Duplin where he had a pee and got himself good and muddy.
We left Duplin Creek early on Monday the 24th and had a quick run down to the Jekyll Harbour Marina where we had booked in for 2 days. Jeckyll Island is a State Park that was once the winter playground of the very rich and very famous. The state bought the whole island and has worked to maintain the old "cottages" as they once were. They are very grand. The Millionaires Club is now a luxury hotel and the island is a huge tourist attraction. We enjoyed nice walks around the historical area and a couple of meals in the restaurant that was attached to the marina. While there, we made plans to stay for a couple of days at St-Mary's Georgia. This community for about 9 years, has been hosting an American Thanksgiving dinner for boaters. So we left the comfort of Jekyll Harbour and made for the anchorage at St-Mary's. There is a small marina there but since our plans were made late in the game we figured that our only option would be to anchor out. That was no problem since the anchorage is very large - last year there were over 100 boats there. And, the holding was very good, as soon as the anchor touched bottom - it grabbed and held. That has been the case each time that I anchored. And, the next morning, the anchor has come up clean - no mud or weeds attached. The bottoms must be sandy or gravelly.
The Thanksgiving dinner is a story in itself. Over 200 people were served. 21 turkeys were cooked by the local organizing committee. There was no cost to the boaters. It was a chance to sit down with many other people who are doing what we are and pick their brains, or listen to their stories. Amazingly, at the table next to where Karen and Kent and I sat down, were 4 people, one couple who passed around their boat card. Their address was on the card. It was ...Fenelon Falls, On Canada. They were the Tracys. I had taught their daughter Nancy, when I worked at I. E Weldon. Tiny world!!! Next stop Florida!!
We stayed at St-Mary's Wednesday and Thursday and left before sunrise on Friday the 28th - this time bound for Palm Cove Marina, near Jacksonville, Florida. There was a fairly shallow entrance channel which we hit a low tide but managed to get in early enough to grab a needed shower, and walk over to the food store and stock up before our "sundowner" hors d'oerves and drinks. The temperatures are warming up - the days are still sunny - we are catching up with the summer.
The start to St-Augustine was again before sunrise so that we could take advantage of the daylight hours and the favourable tidal current. The trip was easy; the water unshallow and wide; the scenery becoming more of what one would expect in Florida - less marsh grass and more condos and large homes along the waterway. We had planned to stay at least 2 days in St-Augustine but that stretched out to 4 days - the 3rd because of heavy rains and winds; the 4th because Kent and I had to make a trip to the sailors' exchange where we both had items to get. Our first day in St-A. sunny and very warm. We arrived early enough to have time to take the trolley train around the old section of town for an hour and 20 minutes. It gave us the "lay of the land". This is a very old city - the oldest settled by Europeans in North America - around 1513, I think. This is the place where Ponce de Leon discovered the "Fountain of Youth". It is also a town full of old tourist traps like the Ripleys's Believe it or Not museum and about 100 other museums. There were loads of people here on Saturday because of the Thanksgiving weekend but the other days have been a lot quieter. We have busied ourselves by reading, taking the shuttle bus to Amelia Island where there is a picturesque lighthouse, planning the rest of our time in Florida, and doing boat-related jobs. Caja has been spoiled with 2 good walks per day and I with restaurant meals at least once per day.
I will be leaving the boat in about 3 weeks and it will be left here for at least two and a half months. Other boaters have been advising me that I should make arrangements to have it hauled out and stored on dry land while I am away. A convenient spot often mentioned and one, I think, where Bob and Jane Ellis left their boat is at Indian River Marina on the Okeechobee. I will have to think about that over the next week or so; if I decide that I will not go over to the Bahamas in the winter, then it might be 3 or 4 months before the boat gets used. Kent and Karen are suggesting that it might be easier for me to do the Florida Keys than the Bahamas. Lots yet to sort out. I am getting a bit tired so I do need to take a bit of a break from the cruising life.
Anyhow, that brings me up to date. The sun is shining again; the winds have dropped, but so has the temperature. Tonight there might be frost but things warm up again staring tomorrow. We are off for Palm Coast Marina where we have slips reserved for 2 days, and then it is on to Daytona Beach. That will be the end of the line for Kent and Karen. They will be hauling their boat and returning home to Oklahoma for about a month before they return and press on to the Keys.
They have been very good travelling companions. I will be sorry to leave them.
On my visit to the sailor's exchange, I picked up a couple of used burners that I think might fit by cooking stove. That is my job for this afternoon. But first, an excellent lunch.
So long for now.
Mike
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
2 comments:
Hello Mick. Bob here in Cochrane, lots of snow and temperatures in the -4 to -l0.winter is well set in. Very good writting in you comments. Sounds like a very interesting trip. You are not missing anything up here in Canada. Politicians are fighting and trying to over throw the conservatives. Really crazy. Take care and keep at it.
May your skies be blue and winds favourable
Bob & Noella
Hello, Mike: Great detail & stories, it's really fascinating... By the way, Nancy Tracy's parents are both deceased now (her dad died about 20 years ago and her mom died a couple years ago now I think), so it was probably one of her brothers you met up with down there. Nancy has 3 older brothers: Eric, Tim & Paul; they were my neighbours & I got to know them well with bowling with Nancy weekly and visiting her to play when we were young. Eric used to board horses on our farm & we had many interesting adventures with him alone!...I had a great squash lesson today - hit 8 shots during my end of the lesson rallies that qualified as "good" or "nice" according to the 'teach' (they were winners, so they really were "great" to beat him - he's the best player on the U. Western squash team). We're jealous you're down in Florida now! It's been so cold today. I got some great tennis matches on DVD, including Federer's gold medal match from this summer when he and his partner won the men's doubles at the Olympics (so exciting!) - plus his match against Andy Murray at the year ending tournament (only top 8 in world invited), which was extremely exciting & high quality, just got it in the mail yesterday too, plus I just got on DVD two exhibition tennis events he played a couple weeks ago in Asia with Bjorn Borg, John McEnroe & James Blake. My tennis season continues! All the best... Linda Brewster
Post a Comment